Comments on: Is Free Soloing Ever Worth the Risk? http://matadorsports.com/is-free-soloing-ever-worth-the-risk Covering sports culture and personalities around the world. Thu, 11 Mar 2010 17:11:18 -0800 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.8.4 hourly 1 By: Somchai http://matadorsports.com/is-free-soloing-ever-worth-the-risk/comment-page-1#comment-891 Somchai Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:15:21 +0000 http://matadorsports.com/?p=2325#comment-891 Soloing isn't necesarily about a rush, but more a calmness that come from being under control. A similar feeling to that felt while climbing extremely run out routes. I discussed just this topic more than a couple of times with Derek Hersey mentioned in the fourth paragraph. Some thoughts. Soloing should be done with the knowledge and acceptance that the price of failure is death. If one doesn't understand and fully appreciate the consequences one shouldn't solo. Climbing ropeless twenty feet off the ground is more akin to high altitude bouldering, not free soloing. Free soloing, especialy routes that haven't been rehearsed leaves no ambiguity as to ethics. So many people climb at what is in reality far above their ablilities these days. Soloing teaches one to truly asses ones abilities, failure to recognise one's limitiations can ruin your day. Lastly some choice quotes from Derek. The first while belaying he sits right on top of the bad anchors he spent half an hour trying to find and set up securely so that I can't see the anchors at all and assume him to have none. When I reach the crux and can see his seeming lack of anchors he looks over, gives a serious look, and dead pans, "Don't fall or we both go". The other while simulsoloing the exit from a long route he looks back and says, "slip now and you'll fall the rest of your life". I'm now old fat weak and have trouble climbing out of bed. Soloing isn’t necesarily about a rush, but more a calmness that come from being under control. A similar feeling to that felt while climbing extremely run out routes.

I discussed just this topic more than a couple of times with Derek Hersey mentioned in the fourth paragraph.

Some thoughts.

Soloing should be done with the knowledge and acceptance that the price of failure is death. If one doesn’t understand and fully appreciate the consequences one shouldn’t solo.

Climbing ropeless twenty feet off the ground is more akin to high altitude bouldering, not free soloing.

Free soloing, especialy routes that haven’t been rehearsed leaves no ambiguity as to ethics. So many people climb at what is in reality far above their ablilities these days. Soloing teaches one to truly asses ones abilities, failure to recognise one’s limitiations can ruin your day.

Lastly some choice quotes from Derek. The first while belaying he sits right on top of the bad anchors he spent half an hour trying to find and set up securely so that I can’t see the anchors at all and assume him to have none. When I reach the crux and can see his seeming lack of anchors he looks over, gives a serious look, and dead pans, “Don’t fall or we both go”.

The other while simulsoloing the exit from a long route he looks back and says, “slip now and you’ll fall the rest of your life”.

I’m now old fat weak and have trouble climbing out of bed.

]]> By: Abbie http://matadorsports.com/is-free-soloing-ever-worth-the-risk/comment-page-1#comment-887 Abbie Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:16:12 +0000 http://matadorsports.com/?p=2325#comment-887 I have a very "strong" opinion about free soloing, so I'll try to reel it in a bit... As a climber myself, I can appreciate climbers who have a cool head and can stay calm in uncomfortable situations. That said, I also know how a foot can unexpectedly blow, or you can grab a hold and it just doesn't feel quite right, or you are climbing fine and then something tweaks, OR you are climbing and a bee flies up your sleeve and stings you. My point is that anything can happen, no matter how calm you are, and you could fall and get hurt (or worse). I think that free soloing is incredibly irresponsible. Especially if you have a family (i.e. John Bachar, a famous climber who recently fell soloing in Mammoth and died), the rush is not worth the potential consequences. It's not just about you, it's about your family, your children, your friends. I have a very “strong” opinion about free soloing, so I’ll try to reel it in a bit…
As a climber myself, I can appreciate climbers who have a cool head and can stay calm in uncomfortable situations. That said, I also know how a foot can unexpectedly blow, or you can grab a hold and it just doesn’t feel quite right, or you are climbing fine and then something tweaks, OR you are climbing and a bee flies up your sleeve and stings you. My point is that anything can happen, no matter how calm you are, and you could fall and get hurt (or worse). I think that free soloing is incredibly irresponsible. Especially if you have a family (i.e. John Bachar, a famous climber who recently fell soloing in Mammoth and died), the rush is not worth the potential consequences. It’s not just about you, it’s about your family, your children, your friends.

]]>