Friday Fun: Bouldering at the ‘Speed of Life’

03/18/10  Print This Post Print This Post    2 Comments      Written by Adam Roy
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After a week straight of rain and flooding, we’re finally getting some sun here in Massachusetts. With temperature’s rising, the Northeast climbing season is opening.

I’d like to celebrate by sharing a video of one of New England’s classic climbs: Speed of Life.

Located in Farley, MA, Speed of Life (V10) is a strong candidate for the most beautiful hunk of rock in the US, a highball gneiss boulder with an almost-flawless face. First climbed by Maine native Dave Graham, it has a reputation as one of the most perfect boulder problemsof it’s grade, a crimpy, steeply overhanging climb full of big moves.

This video is by climber Jon Glassberg, who sent Speed of Life during a trip to Massachusetts this past winter. Apart from the final, celebratory crotch grab, I think Glassberg does a good job of conveying why Speed of Life has come to represent the perfect climb for so many people.

Speed of Life (V10) from Jon Glassberg on Vimeo.

Community Connection

You can see Dave Graham’s first ascent of Speed of Life on YouTube.


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About the Author

Matador ID: adnroy

Chicago native Adam Roy is editor at Matador Sports and an aspiring renaissance man to boot. For more of Adam's writing, check out his blog at Ill-Advised Adventures.

2 Comments... join the discussion!

  • JoAnna replied on March 19, 2010

    Very cool! So strange that a little innocent rock could be so difficult to climb.

    ↵ Reply
    • Adam Roy replied to JoAnna on April 5, 2010

      Like you wouldn’t believe. We went to Farley yesterday, and every time we stopped to ask people for directions, they gave them in reference to Speed of Life: “oh, you know, you just pass Speed of Life and keep walking for five minutes, you’ll see it on your left.”

      ↵ Reply

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