All Photos: N. Chrystine Olson

It’s a late August afternoon, and the weather is warm, downright hot in the sun. Above my right shoulder, I hear an unusual sound. It takes a couple of seconds to locate the screeching osprey, perched in its nest on the light at midfield.

Today, everyone in the fish hawk’s view is dressed in the same monochromatic colors. Teenager athletes are in full uniform, half in white jerseys, the others in black. The coaches wear shorts and t-shirts. Football season starts in a week.

Good thing this is a scrimmage game, because my hat is wrong. Everything else is right: athletic cleats, white and black socks, white polyester knickers, and the signature black and white striped shirt. My ball cap is black with a trout on it: somewhere between my house and the high school the black hat with the subtle white piping didn’t make it into my gym bag.

For 13 years, I’ve officiated high school football. I started in the mid 90’s in remote Great Basin towns in Nevada and Utah. I was recruited by guys I watched Monday Night Football with, who said I knew the rules better than they did.

Any girl raised in Wisconsin during the Lombardi era with the Green Bay Packers had to, really.

When I came back to Idaho in 2007, an off-hand comment about my officiating past carried beyond the walls of the sports bar one post-game September night. Within a week, I had been called by Idaho’s Division I football commissioner. Did I still have my gear? Would I be willing to take the exam ASAP and get back on the field for the rest of the season? I answered yes to both questions.

Being a lone female football official is an interesting way to see small town America. When I show up at a new school there’s often panic in the Athletic Director’s eyes. “Where is she going to dress?” they say to no one in particular.

The shortened version of my name is often misspelled on their paperwork: “Chris Olson” must be a guy. If the game is close to home, I come “in costume” to avoid such uncomfortable moments, but the knickers itch on long drives. My fellow officials are used to it, smiling slyly at me as I’m escorted to a separate changing room.

Because of my uncurvaceous, parallel frame, players often don’t know my gender until I throw a flag and they hear my voice for the first time. Their wide-eyed expression comes with a sincere exclamation as they return to the huddle: “That’s a GIRL!”

My decade-old SUV has thousands of miles on it, traveling to small schools with dreams of gridiron glory. For some, it’s a good season if they win their homecoming game. I haven’t encountered any other aging tomboys of my kind, but this year the captain of one junior varsity team is a girl, and a damn good lineman.

I have memories of being called names no male official’s ears have heard. My favorite involves speculation on my sexual orientation happening simultaneously on both sidelines one crisp fall Saturday in Wendover, Utah. The line judge and I, who by then had worked wings together on many games, made a bet on when someone would say it out loud.

Before we could settle the wager with a cold beer, my identity would suffer yet another mistaken assumption. Seeing my boyfriend kissing me while I was still in uniform after the game created a scandal for the largely Mormon community: the Intermountain Sports Officials Association had obviously hired an openly gay zebra.

We can call ourselves that, “zebra”, but players had better not. I’ve witnessed some other referees lose their composure, throwing a flag for unsportsmanlike conduct against any teenager daring to call us such.

Maybe it’s because I’ve seen zebras in the wild, but I find it endearing. I only give a quiet warning, wink and get ready for the next play.

Community Connection

Read Chrystine’s thoughts on college basketball on her blog.

It’s not often that I get to use the words “extreme” and “bowling” together, but there’s just no other way to describe this video. These bowlers do it all: backwards, under the leg, diving, strike after sweet strike.

From all of us at Matador, have an extreme weekend!

Photo: stevehicks/ Feature: Sistak

As a native Midwesterner, I passed the first decade or so of my life in a region that just about defined “flat.” Growing up, my idea of high altitude travel was the elevator ride to the top of the Sears Tower.

While I’m still no Edmund Hillary, there is one aspect of mountaineering that I’m (unfortunately) intimately familiar with. I’ve gotten altitude sickness on no fewer than three different continents, varying in degree from “mild” to “suddenly I have an opinion on euthanasia.”

Three-quarters of travelers who visit high-altitude locales, whether as climbers or tourists, will experience some of the same symptoms I did. If not handled properly, the most severe forms of altitude sickness can lead to permanent damage or death.

Being familiar with the symptoms and treatments for altitude sickness will make any trip to high altitudes a lot safer, and definitely more enjoyable.

Recognizing altitude sickness

Altitude sickness is a barometric illness – it stems from changes in atmospheric pressure. Symptoms can occur at altitudes as low as 8,000 feet, but serious problems usually begin at 12,000 feet.

Everyone with altitude sickness presents differently, but there are a few symptoms that are pretty much universal.

The first definite symptom of altitude sickness is fatigue. Affected persons may complain of shortness of breath, or they may sleep more than normal. After flying to the Himalayan city of Ladakh in northern India, I found myself doing just this, sleeping 12 or more hours a day.

Photo: Jace

The next common symptom is nausea, varying from slight indigestion or dizziness to severe vomiting. This is often accompanied by a loss of appetite.

As the sickness becomes more severe, so do the symptoms. Victims of moderate to severe altitude sickness may complain of difficulty breathing or a feeling of tightness in their chests. Despite feeling exhausted, they may have trouble falling and staying asleep.

A definite symptom of serious altitude sickness is a decrease in coordination, or ataxia. The easiest way to test for ataxia is to ask the victim to walk a straight line, heel-to-toe, or perform a task that requires dexterity, such as tying a knot.

If a person is unable to perform these tasks, it’s essential to get him or her to a lower altitude as quickly as possible. Without prompt treatment, the victim may soon be unable to walk unassisted, which makes getting off the mountain significantly trickier and more dangerous.

Treating altitude sickness

One of the “pluses” about altitude sickness is that it’s a fairly well-known illness. People have been dealing with it as long as they’ve been climbing mountains. What that means is that travelers at altitude have a full arsenal of remedies.

Photo: audrey_sel

Acclimate, acclimate, acclimate

If you only take one step to prevent altitude sickness, this should be it.

The rate of ascent is the single most important factor in deciding who gets sick and who doesn’t. Avoid climbing more than 1,000 feet per day and drink lots of water.

When traveling from low to high altitude, opt to drive rather than fly – the longer trip will give your body time to acclimate.

If you must fly, spend at least 24 hours being completely lazy – sleep plenty and don’t do any strenuous activity.

Low altitude

The most time-honored tradition for altitude sickness: get off the damn mountain. All but the most severe symptoms of altitude sickness will resolve all by themselves after descending from altitude.

Mountaineers tackling high peaks should ideally follow the “climb high, sleep low” rule, as bedtime is when breathing difficulties and many other symptoms are at their worst.

Medication

Many travelers heading to altitude take Diamox (Acetazolamide), a medication that boosts respiratory function by pushing the kidneys to excrete bicarbonate, a form of carbon dioxide.

As a prophylactic, it can help prevent some of the most dangerous symptoms of altitude sickness. Like any medication, however, it should only be taken in consultation with a physician.

Supplmentary oxygen

Photo: the.Firebottle

While oxygen bottles won’t necessarily prevent pulmonary or cerebral edema, they can go a long way toward relieving nausea and fatigue.

Some hotels in cities such as Cuzco keep oxygen bottles and masks to treat severe cases.

Herbal tea

To help prevent symptoms of “soroche”, the local name for the sickness, residents of Peru swear by coca mate, an infusion made from the leaves of the coca plant. While it’s not legal nor widely available in the United States, it’s worth a try if you’re heading to the region.

Community Connection

Had an experience dealing with altitude sickness? Tell us your stories and personal remedies in the comments.

Travelers are just starting to appreciate Catamarca for what it has to offer. The Argentine province, located in the country’s far northwest, isn’t on many travelers’ must-see lists. None of the many people I talked to while planning my whirlwind trip there, Argentine or otherwise, could say anything more specific about the region than “I hear it’s pretty” or “It’s very hot there.”

With 80% mountainous terrain, the province is just waiting to be trekked. We made the 16-hour pilgrimage by bus from Buenos Aires to hike around one of Catamarca’s best-known towns, El Rodeo, in the middle of the Argentine winter.

1. Located in the mountains of Ambato about an hour from San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca, El Rodeo is a popular weekend getaway during the summer. Like the capital, the town is developing into a hotspot for outdoor activity; horseback riding and hiking are especially popular.

2. El Rodeo has an astonishing number of footbridges for the arid region, courtesy of several small streams that criss-cross the town. Many residents take advantage of the brooks to irrigate their gardens, rerouting the flow of water through miniature canals dug into their lawns.

3. Like most buildings in El Rodeo, La Casa de Chicha doesn’t have an address, a fact that can make it a bit difficult to find. Along with the Hosteleria Municipal, the bed-and-breakfast is one of the few hotels open year-round.

4. One of the most popular hikes in El Rodeo is the climb to the Cristo Redentor, a large statue of Christ built on nearby Cerro del Huaico. With no street numbers, the statue also serves as a handy reference point: at least one local gave us directions by telling us to head toward Jesus.

5. The statue, which was completed in 1964, is perched on an outcropping jutting out from the top of the hill. Visitors leave rosaries and wooden crosses woven into the chain-link fence surrounding the statue, and a small shrine sits just down the path.

6. At altitudes of over 5000 feet above sea level, the mountaintops around El Rodeo experience drastic shifts in temperature. With little to no tree cover to provide shade, days are parched and searing hot, even during the winter months.

7. By late afternoon, temperatures drop enough to let hikers pause and watch the sunset in comfort. The lack of light pollution and distance from the city leaves the skies clear for magnificent sunset-watching and stargazing.

8. If I had to pick two words to describe El Rodeo’s bird life, they would be “colorful” and “loud”. The parrots, in particular, are as obnoxious as they are beautiful: you could track flocks by their squawking alone.

9. The trails’ nocturnal wildlife is much quieter, not to mention more leggy.

10. Like everywhere else in Argentina, soccer is king in Catamarca. Children play pickup games in the street or on improvised pitches, such as this one on a farm on the edge of town.

Community Connection

Gear up for the trails with Matador Goods’ review of Keen Women’s Targhee II Mid Hiking Boots.

Photo: bredgur

Usain Bolt maybe be about to break his most important record yet.

Bolt’s new 100 m. record brings him to within a fraction of a second of the”human speed limit”, the maximum sprint speed predicted by researchers. It seems likely that, within a race or two, he may do what some scientists believed to be impossible: push human ability beyond its theoretical limits.

Breaking the curve

Statistically speaking, progress in sprinting world records usually fits along a curve. Over time, records are broken by smaller and smaller margins, eventually leveling off as they approach the absolute limits of the human body’s physical ability. In 2008, Stanford professor Mark Denny calculated this ceiling to be 9.48 seconds for the 100 m.

Usain Bolt, however, has been doing exactly the opposite of what the statistics say he should be doing. Instead of getting slower, Bolt is gaining momentum: he’s been breaking world records by larger and larger margins. His latest time, 9.58 seconds, is just a tenth of a second from beating Denny’s predicted limit.

Photo: thor_matt83

Bolt himself has said that he thinks he can run the race in as little as 9.4 seconds.

Peter Weyand, an associate professor at Southern Methodist University, believes that sprinters can do even better. Writing via email, Weyand told Matador Sports that Bolt’s large size means that he’s starting at a disadvantage.

“If we could magically increase the size of a great sprinter, say Carl Lewis, without changes in their proportions…the weaker in relation to body weight the person becomes,” said Weyand.

While Bolt “has developed other ways to compensate”, it still seems likely that a smaller sprinter with Bolt’s skill could eventually run even faster.

The sprinters of the future

There’s another factor that makes it tricky to predict the human speed limit: technology. One of the problems with mathematical models is that they ignore future improvements in equipment and nutrition, which often make a big difference in athletes’ performance.

“Look at what has happened to the swimming records with the introduction of the new body suits that reduce drag and what occurred in speed skating with the introduction of the klapskate,” said Weyand. “Both technical advances blasted the record books.” He went on to say that he expected engineers to make similar advances for runners “in the relatively near-term future”.

As advances in shoe and prosthetic technology continue, the question of where we draw the line is becoming more and more crucial. According to Weyand, it’s likely that the human speed limit may one day be decided by track and field authorities, instead of runners.

“The challenge posed to the sporting authorities will be…identifying sound and enforceable policies that distinguish between ‘clean and fair’ and ‘less clean and unfair’,” he said. “Given a landscape increasingly blurred by science and technology, I don’t envy them.”

Community Connection

How much technology is too much? Sound off in the comments!

Photos: Gisli H Fridgeirsson

On August 3, Gisli H. Fridgeirsson became the first Icelander to circle his native country in a kayak, landing at Cape Geldinganes in Reykjavík after a two-month solo journey.

Accompanied at different times by whales, seals and seabirds, Fridgeirsson kayaked along the northern shore mostly at night, taking advantage of the generally light evenings. In an interview with Icelandic newspaper Fréttabladid, Fridgeirsson described his adventure as a personal journey.

“It was both demanding and exciting, and I was given the opportunity to get to know the country from the viewpoint of those who rowed for fishing in years past,” he said. “I’m very satisfied and feel as if my achievement adds a certain value to life.”

What do you do for a day job?

My daily job is working in a governmental office of measuring instruments. It’s very different from the outdoor adventure that a long kayak trip offers.

What made you take on this mission?

My own country offers a lot of freedom when traveling outdoors. After having paddled in most weather conditions with the kayak club in Reykjavik over the last few years, the coast of Iceland became too much of a challenge [to pass up].

What were the biggest challenges once you were on your way?

The real challenge is to know how much you can take and not to pass the limits of your own capabilities. It requires good judgment and correct timing regarding wind, waves, and currents, as well as landing conditions in rocks or breaking waves.

Can you talk us through a typical day or night of the trip?

It is hard to say how the daily routine was, since each day was different. An average day might have been nine hours paddling with two hours rest for coffee and meals, then five hours camping, cooking, looking at the environment, and preparing for the next day. Plus eight hours sleep.

The isolation and light summer nights must have been a special combination.

Yes, the light nights meant I could paddle around the clock. Some nights were magical, heaven and mountains upside down in the purple mirror of the ocean and no single sound, except maybe the sound of breathing whales around me when I stopped paddling to have a few minutes rest.

What did you think about during all that time alone out at sea?

Sometimes I was a bit afraid, sometimes I was deep in personal thoughts about my life and my family, sometimes I was overwhelmed by the beauty of nature and thanking my Creator.

What kit did you take with you?

For navigation and safety, I used laminated maps, a compass, GPS, SPOT, emergency flares, lights, and some other gear. My friends knew approximately where I was, in case of unexpected problems. For camping, I used a weather resistant tent, an extra bivouac for sleeping outside when weather was “too good” to camp, and gas for cooking.

What back up plans did you have in case of emergencies, such as getting caught in bad weather or capsizing?

Capsizing is not such a problem as people think, when you’ve got the right training. It’s more the danger of a head injury if you hit rocks, or breaking your boat when a wave catches you and throws you to the shore.

Now that you’ve finished, have you been kayaking in your sleep?

It takes much energy and determination to finish those 1250 miles, and I’ve been dream-paddling every night.

I’ve been rather lazy and sleepy. I suppose two more weeks will be needed to regain my weight and get my strength back.

What did you get out of this journey? Would you do it all again?

Such a journey gives a unique insight into yourself and some kind of fulfillment and joy. I don’t think I will do anything like that again, but I should have done it many years ago.

Community Connection

See Iceland for yourself with Matador community member jesspaul14’s blog Iceland in 4 days.

Photo: Thor_Matt83 / Feature: Phil McElhinney

Length of Sunday’s race: 100 m.

Time: 9.58 s.

Previous record: 9.69 s.

Following wind speed: 2 mph

Fastest speed during race: 29.2 mph

Theoretical limit to human speed: 30 mph (approx.)

Cheetah’s top speed: 70 mph

World records broken by Bolt: 5

Olympic gold medals: 3

World championship gold medals: 1

Bolt’s age: 22

Spectators in attendance: 51,000

Days since Bolt last broke 100 m. record: 365

Seconds Bolt has lowered record in past 15 months: .16

Seconds record lowered in preceding 15 years: .11

Days until 200 m. final: 2

Days until Usain Bolt’s 23rd Birthday: 3

Community Connection

Relive last year’s summer games with Brave New Traveler’s How Love and Money Conquered Communism at the Beijing Olympics.

Photo: jayhem

There’s something about master free divers that goes beyond athleticism. Expert free diving is almost Zen-like, a union between athlete and environment.

If you’re looking to master the sport, it’s as important to train your brain as your body. Along with regular exercise and instruction, these basic exercises should help set you on the right track.

Page Turner

Photo: Kamil Porembinski

What you’ll need: a book.

Sit down and make yourself comfortable, then take a deep breath and hold it. While continuing to hold your breath, open the book to a random page and start reading.

Keep reading until you can’t hold your breath any longer. Using a pencil, mark how far down the page you read.

Why It Works:

Well before your body has actually run out of oxygen, your diaphragm begins to spasm in a reflexive attempt to resume breathing. While this isn’t harmful, novice divers often find the sensation of their diaphragm contracting slightly uncomfortable and misinterpret it as an urgent need to breathe.

By distracting you from your body’s automatic response, this exercise helps you push this “need to breathe” point closer to your actual physical capacity.

The book also makes a handy guide to track your progress . Aim to improve by a sentence or so every time you do this activity.

Apnea Walk

Photo: rjs1322

What you’ll need: a track or sidewalk, a stopwatch.

Begin holding your breath. Keeping time on your watch, remain standing in place for one minute.

After a minute has passed, begin walking down the track at a relaxed but steady pace, maintaining your breath-hold the entire time. Go as far as you can without taking a breath.

Why It Works:

Like sprinting, free diving is an anaerobic exercise – that is, your body is using oxygen faster than it’s replenishing it. The apnea walk helps accustom your muscles to doing work under anaerobic conditions without weakening or cramping up.

When practicing the apnea walk, avoid rushing: you’ll use oxygen much more efficiently by maintaining a moderate, even pace. If the minute breath-hold is too long for you, start with 20 or 30 seconds and try to work your way up from there.

Blind Swim

Photo: Steve and Jemma Copley

What you’ll need: a pool, a mask, a roll of duct tape, fins (optional), a safety buddy (not optional).

Completely cover the lens of your mask with strips of duct tape, so that you can’t see through it at all. When you’re done, put on the mask (and fins, if you so desire) and carefully lower yourself into the pool. Without taking the mask off, feel your way to the side of the pool.

Take a deep breath and dive under the surface. Once you’re completely submerged, start swimming steadily down the side of the pool, guiding yourself only by touch.

Continue swimming for as long as you can without surfacing.

Why It Works:

Stress is one of the most important influences over your free-diving performance. Besides physiological effects like increased heart rate, divers who are suffering from high levels of stress are more likely to make mistakes or even panic in the water.

In the blind swim, participants confront one of the most common human stressors: fear of the unknown. After practicing and becoming comfortable with what are essentially worst-case conditions, divers are better equipped to handle routine problems, like flooded masks or current, without losing their cool.

Please note: like any aquatic activity, the blind swim involves a certain degree of risk. For safety’s sake, never do this or any other in-pool exercise without a lifeguard or buddy present.

Community Connection

Loosen up before hitting the water with Brave New Traveler’s Simple Beach Yoga for Backpackers.

Photo: Theodore Scott

Ridge to Rivers

Boise’s Ridge to Rivers trail system covers the Boise Foothills that rise up to the northeast of the city. There are over 125 miles of mixed-use trails through 80,000 acres of desert.

This video is a good example of what trails look like in the Foothills:

Old Fort Boise Military Reserve

Like many of the trail areas, the Military Reserve park is just outside of downtown Boise. Trails fan out in several directions, but all lead into the hills.

This is a good place to get comfortable with the area. You can combine many of the small loops without getting very far out, or follow one of several trails that go high up the ridge.

Camelsback Park

Follow 8th Street north out of downtown to reach Camelsback/Hulls Gulch Reserve, whose numerous trails overlook Boise. One 3-mile trail is pedestrian only, but there are still plenty of choices for cyclists.

More Options

A few miles southeast of downtown, the Old Idaho State Penitentiary area has a number of short 3 to 5-mile loops.

If you exhaust all the trails close to town, head up to Bogus Basin ski resort 16 miles away, where you’ll find a whole new set of paths. Occasionally, the ski lifts will run in the summer for bikers – check the mountain website for dates.

Photo: Theodore Scott

To experience the most exciting biking Boise has to offer, try the Bonzai,a 17-mile downhill from Bogus Basin to the bottom of the foothills.

When To Go

May through October is the time for riding. The higher elevation on the ridge cools you down and takes the edge off the summer heat.

Be careful to avoid muddy trails in the spring – Boise has a serious problem with riders carelessly tearing up paths.

Map Skills

Trails near Boise tend to branch out – many of the routes in the Boise Foothills are pieced together from a number of different trails. It takes a while to get to know the area, so stop by a local shop for a map and advice. If you’re told to try out a popular loop, double-check its location before heading out.

Preparation

Standard biking etiquette applies – stay on the trails and slow down for other users. Check trail conditions before heading out.

If you want local riding partners check out the Southwest Idaho Mountain Biking Association. For the younger crowd, you can also look into BYRDS – a biking club designed to introduce youth to cycling.

Stop by a local bike shop to gear up, buy Ridge to Rivers map, and ask what trails meet your skill level:
Bob’s Bicycles
George’s Cycles
Reed Cycle

Community Connection

Go around the world with Matador Trips’ article on the world’s 15 most bike-friendly cities.